Port · River Gambia

James Island (Kunta Kinteh Island)

James Island, renamed Kunta Kinteh Island in 2011, is a tiny island in the River Gambia where England’s Royal African Company kept a fort for buying gold, ivory and, above all, enslaved Africans. Around 1715 the fort depended on the Mandinka kingdom of Niumi on the north bank, which sat across the river’s trade routes and charged the Europeans tolls. In 1719 the pirate Howell Davis seized it by a trick, according to a 1724 book; today its ruins are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Where is James Island, and what is it called today?

James Island sits in the middle of the River Gambia, in West Africa, about 30 kilometres upstream from the sea. It is less than two miles from the villages of Albreda and Juffureh on the north bank. In 2011 the government of The Gambia renamed it Kunta Kinteh Island, and UNESCO changed the name of its World Heritage listing the same year.

The island is very small and very low. Tides and storms have worn it away, and it is now thought to be only about a sixth of the size it was when the fort was busy.

Who built the fort on James Island?

A Portuguese expedition reached the river in 1456 and called the island St Andrew’s Island, after a sailor they buried there. The first lasting fort was built in 1651 by settlers from the Duchy of Courland, a small Baltic state in today’s Latvia. The island had no fresh water of its own, so the garrison relied on the King of Barra, on the north bank, from the start.

The English captured the fort in 1661 and named the island after James, Duke of York, the king’s brother and later King James II. After several other English companies, the Royal African Company took charge in 1684. This was the company, chartered by the king, that ran England’s forts in West Africa; its ships carried about 187,000 enslaved people from Africa to English colonies between 1672 and 1731.

The fort was fought over again and again. French forces took it in 1695, 1702 and 1704, and the English left it empty from 1709 to 1713. By the game’s era it was a battered post that the company struggled to keep supplied.

Who held power on the River Gambia around 1715?

The fort flew a British flag, but the river belonged to African states. On the north bank lay Niumi, also called Barra, a Mandinka kingdom whose ruler, the mansa, was chosen in turn from a group of royal towns. Niumi’s leaders grew rich on the river trade by charging tolls to passing merchants and to the Europeans who lived there. Niumi was also a source of salt for peoples further inland.

From about 1681 France kept a trading post at Albreda, within sight of the island. Captives from states further up the river were marched down to Albreda and Juffureh and sold to British and French ships.

The Senegalese historian Boubacar Barry shows how the Atlantic slave trade strengthened warrior rulers across Senegambia, the lands of the Senegal and Gambia rivers, and fed raiding and war. People were taken in wars between states, in raids on villages and by kidnapping on the roads.

What was traded at James Island?

European ships brought cloth, iron bars, beads, guns and gunpowder and alcohol. In return the Gambia sold gold, ivory, hides, beeswax and ebony. By the 1700s the main business at James Island was in people. Captives bought along the river were held on the island until a ship came to carry them across the Atlantic.

The company’s grip was weak. It had lost its legal monopoly in the 1690s, and private English traders, the French at Albreda and later American ships all bought in the river.

How did Howell Davis capture the fort in 1719?

Howell Davis was a Welsh sailor from Milford Haven who turned pirate in 1718. Early in 1719, he sailed up the Gambia. The fullest account comes from the 1724 General History of the Pyrates, a partly embellished book. It says Davis and his officers dressed as merchants and claimed to be from Liverpool, offering to buy slaves. Invited to dine with the governor, Davis drew a pistol on him instead and his men locked the soldiers in the guardroom, without a fight.

The book says the pirates found about £2,000 in bar gold, less than they hoped, spent two days in the fort, took the guns off their carriages and wrecked the defences. Davis sailed on to the Sierra Leone River and was killed at Príncipe a few months later. His crew then elected Bartholomew Roberts as captain.

Pirates came out of the fort, too. In June 1721 John Massey, an officer sent to guard the hungry garrison, sailed off with his soldiers and George Lowther, a mate on the company ship Gambia Castle. They soon turned to piracy.

Who was Ayuba Suleiman Diallo?

One of the few people from this river whose own story survives is Ayuba Suleiman Diallo, known in England as Job ben Solomon. He was born in about 1701 in Bundu, inland in today’s Senegal, and was an educated Muslim and a merchant. In February 1730 his father sent him to the Gambia to sell two captives. While he was trading across the river, Mandinka raiders seized him and his interpreter and sold them to an English captain.

Ayuba was shipped to Annapolis, in Maryland, and set to work in the tobacco fields. He ran away, was jailed in 1731, and wrote a letter to his father. It reached James Oglethorpe, a leader of the Royal African Company, who paid for his freedom. In 1734 he sailed home on a company ship, and Francis Moore, a company clerk at James Fort from 1730, wrote about his return.

What is Kunta Kinteh Island like today?

The fort was destroyed and rebuilt several times. The French destroyed it for the last time in 1779, and it has been a ruin ever since.

Today the island holds the ruins of the fort, a small jetty and old baobab trees. It became a national monument in 1995 and, with Albreda, Juffureh and Fort Bullen, a World Heritage Site in 2003. Its new name honours Kunta Kinte, the hero of Alex Haley’s book Roots, which tells of a young Gambian shipped to Annapolis in 1767, long after the game’s era.

Legend or fact?

Legend says: Kunta Kinte was held in the fort in the days of the pirates.

Records show: Roots sets Kunta Kinte’s capture in 1767, about fifty years after Howell Davis. The island was renamed in his honour in 2011.

Legend says: Europeans ruled the River Gambia from James Island.

Records show: African kingdoms such as Niumi held the river banks and the trade routes, and charged the Europeans tolls. The island could not even supply its own water.

Legend says: Howell Davis stormed the fort with guns blazing.

Records show: The only detailed account, the 1724 General History of the Pyrates, describes a trick: a fake merchant visit and a pistol at the governor’s head, with no fight.

Legend says: The ruins are the fort Howell Davis took.

Records show: The fort was wrecked and rebuilt several times, including after 1719, and the French destroyed it for the last time in 1779. The island itself has shrunk badly since.

Legend says: The Gambia traded only in people.

Records show: Gold, ivory, hides and beeswax were traded too. But by the 1700s captives were the main business at the fort.

Sources

  1. Kunta Kinteh Island and Related Sites, UNESCO World Heritage Centre (2003). World Heritage listing in 2003; the river as the first trade route inland; Portuguese arrival by 1456; the fort’s repeated destruction, last by the French in 1779; the Six-Gun Battery and Fort Bullen; erosion.
  2. Periodic Reporting Cycle 3, Section II: Kunta Kinteh Island and Related Sites, UNESCO World Heritage Centre (2021). National monument status in 1995, the first Roots Homecoming Festival in 1996, and the ruin since 1779.
  3. Decision 35 COM 8B.1: Changes to names of properties, Kunta Kinteh Island and Related Sites, UNESCO World Heritage Committee (2011). The change of name from James Island to Kunta Kinteh Island in 2011.
  4. Government Publications Relating to the Gambia, 1822–1965 (introduction), D. C. Dorward and A. C. Butler, EP Microform (1975). The French at Albreda; French captures in 1695, 1702 and 1704; the fort empty 1709–1713; the 1719 raid; the 1779 destruction; exports of slaves, hides, wax, ebony, ivory and gold.
  5. A General History of the Pyrates, chapter on Captain Howel Davis, Captain Charles Johnson, via Standard Ebooks (1724). Davis’s disguise as Liverpool merchants, the seizure of the governor, about £2,000 in bar gold and the wrecking of the defences. Partly embellished.
  6. The history of two Welsh pirates, National Library of Wales. Howell Davis from Milford Haven, his turn to piracy in 1718 and his death at Príncipe.
  7. Travels into the Inland Parts of Africa (catalogue entry), Royal Collection Trust, on Francis Moore’s book of 1738. Moore’s work for the Royal African Company in the Gambia, 1730–1735, and his first-hand account of the slave trade there.
  8. Some Memoirs of the Life of Job (excerpt), Thomas Bluett (1734), National Humanities Center. Ayuba Suleiman Diallo’s capture in February 1730, his enslavement in Maryland, his freedom and his voyage home in 1734.
  9. Thomas Bluett, Some Memoirs of the Life of Job: summary, Documenting the American South, University of North Carolina. Ayuba’s trading journey, his capture by Mandinka raiders, his letter and Oglethorpe’s help.
  10. Senegambia and the Atlantic Slave Trade, Boubacar Barry (Cambridge University Press) (1998). How the slave trade strengthened warrior regimes and fed raiding and war in Senegambia.
  11. Kingdom of Niumi, Wikipedia (citing Gamble 1999, Quinn 1968 and Donald R. Wright 1987 and 2018). Additional source: Niumi as a Mandinka kingdom with rotating kingship, tolls on traders and Europeans, salt, captives taken to Juffure and Albreda, and the French post at Albreda from 1681.
  12. Kunta Kinteh Island, Wikipedia (citing J. M. Gray, A History of the Gambia, 1940, and UNESCO). Additional source: location and erosion, St Andrew’s Island, the Courland fort and its lack of water, the English capture of 1661, the company from 1684, and the 2011 renaming.
  13. Royal African Company, Wikipedia (citing studies of the company’s records). Additional source: the company’s charters, the loss of its monopoly, and the number of people carried on its ships, 1672–1731.
  14. John Massey (pirate), Wikipedia (citing Joseph Gibbs, International Journal of Maritime History, 2016). Additional source: Massey, Lowther and the taking of the Gambia Castle in June 1721, and Massey’s hanging in 1723.
  15. Ayuba Suleiman Diallo, Wikipedia (citing Austin 1997, Diouf 1998 and the Oxford Dictionary of National Biography). Additional source: Ayuba’s birth in Bundu, in today’s Senegal, about 1701.
  16. History of the Gambia, Nasiru Deen and Cherno Talib Jallow. Additional source: cloth, beads and liquor traded for gold, hides, ivory and slaves; the French at Albreda.
  17. Gambia history, GlobalSecurity.org. Additional source: iron, firearms and gunpowder brought to the river; the Courland and English forts.

Written for Silver & Sails. Facts last checked against these sources on 22 October 2026. Found a mistake? Tell us.